Monday, April 23, 2007
Many classmates of mine told me about the un-regularity of my weblog, that I should have written more often and stuff like that but for me it was good even that because I lack discipline. Hopefully my next blog will be more regular!And now what about this one? Is it all over??
Thanks for reading my stories, εις το επανειδείν!
Ευγενία
Sunday, March 4, 2007
Also, at the end of March, my roomates, Phillipe and Corrado are going back and Phillipe has already started to feel nostalgic. Maybe I feel the same way, but I also have to complete the research, I have only a few interviews left, and enjoy my last weeks here. It is true, Istanbul can only seduce you. And the feeling of coming back, that's another thing it brings out.
My last publications are to come, to say goodbye and pay a tribute to this magnificent place! I am so pleased with my choice to come here and a sense of fulfilment overwhelmes me because it paid me back even more than expected!
Monday, February 19, 2007
Mead writes that letters and news from home are both a temptation and an interruption; they can wrench one's thoughts and feelings inappropriately away. I don't know about that, because I am firstly anthropos and next anthropologist. Last Friday I received a sad news about a very dear family; I was overwhelmed. And Saturday I had to go to a Greek carnival party for participant observation. Before I go, I thought that I definately need a masque with a huge smile, to veil my sadness. But as soon as I was there, the field cought my interest and distracted my thoughts. A party, nevertheless, is a good way to distract one's mind. So, the anthropologist in me was back, and now I am happy about that. In general, my research is going well, and by now I am introduced in, but not a part of, the community. For them I am a Greek doing research, and the Rum community is very cautious with outsiders. But in general they are very helpful and kind people, with sincere feelings, I think.
I know that the title of this weblog is 'fielwork in Istanbul' but most of the posts are about my life here; it depends on my mood. We'll see what's next...
Sunday, February 11, 2007
On the way back, I passed by a Catholic church which is actually very close to our house, took some pictures and heard for only some minutes the songs of a Chinese community attending their Sunday service. And then I met Kanber; he was going out and proposed to join him. We had discussed some days ago that we should go to Tarlabasi in the morning, because after speaking to my informants but as well as with Kanber, I was informed that this used to be a very classy Greek neighbourhood. I knew already Tarlabasi from my birthday – night but I didn’t know that it was also another old Greek neighbourhood. The scenery now is of course much different, again very beautiful old houses but almost collapsing, and gypsy and Kurdish people are the present inhabitants. I have many nice pictures in my camera but also in my mind of this very poor but colourful neighborhood. Clothes were hanging from one balcony to another, children were playing in the streets, women were washing the carpets on the streets; then Kanber took me to a Christian church and there we found some Greek people sitting outside. The name of the church was Evangelistria and Mr. Vasilis, the verger of the church (καντυλανάφτης) unlocked the door and let us in. We were amazed; it is an old and beautiful church. For Kanber the experience was even more intense than mine because it was the first time he entered a Christian Orthodox Church. Mr. Vasilis told me that in the past, in the 60s, people were queuing in order to attend the Sunday's service. "But now"...he said, "we are so few". I asked him how many people were this morning in the service and he said around 10, 15 maximum. Yes, indeed, the community is shrinking.
The Greek schools have been closed these last two weeks, a thing that kind of slowed down my research. On Wednesday, I had a very interesting interview with the secretary of Zografeion Highschool, who told me –among other things- that the graduates of last year were 12 (big class, as she commented) and this year’s senior class has also 12 students. She also told me that she will give me the phone numbers of last years graduates but she had to wait for the principal to come back from a trip abroad. Consequently, after tomorrow, maybe I will have more informants. Let’s see…
Tuesday, February 6, 2007
The other day I went to Fener (Φανάρι), the old Greek neighbourhood midway up the
It’s funny but once you are abroad, you tend to stress your nationality, as the most important feature of your identity besides sex; the rest follow: student, worker, musician, artist, traveller, anthropologist, photographer, etc. This is why I sympathise with the Greeks I meet here and their attachment to religion, history and memory. Wherever I go, to the Greek consulate, to the schools, I find big marble inscriptions of Patriarch Bartholomeos, the oath of Alexander the Great and so on. Justifiable, in a way, I think…
As far as my research is concerned, all my contacts come from the Zografeion Highschool. From there I was informed that the majority of graduate students go to study abroad and especially in
Tuesday, January 30, 2007
Night in Istanbul
So, my day started as usual, I had breakfast with Kanber and then I went out to Istiklal caddesi, the big shopping street just 5 min walking from my house. I wanted to buy some kind of sweet, cake or something more traditional, like baklava, but at the end I bought the best profiterole in town! I know, it is not Turkish, but it is a scandalous delight! I bought 2 boxes because now we are more in the house, Andre from
Next, I was in the mood to continue somewhere else but the guys said there was nothing open on Monday, 01 o’clock at night. So, we were walking in Taksim when we saw the taxi-rank and an idea hit us. Some nights ago we watched the film 'Night on Earth', five different stories of taxi drivers around the world. The guys loved the movie and suggested that we should do the same in
The night came to an end at the house, smoking our last cigarettes and eating my delicious profiterole! What a birth-night!
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
Pazartesi, 15 Ocak, 2007
This last week I had mainly been looking for a place to stay, I moved for four days to an apartment of a Turkish guy and on Saturday I moved to a student house in Taksim. The owner, Kanber, is a very friendly young business man who wanted to make this hostel, ‘Hostel de Pera’ is called, for people that come and stay for a while in Istanbul-not just travellers- so, as he said, to create more secure and cosy atmosphere. The truth is that nobody locks his room and in fact there are no keys in the doors. The other renters are all men and consequently I am the only girl in the house, which is funny and convenient some times. On my first evening there we all had dinner together;Kanber and Corrado (from Italy) cooked fish and shrimps from the Black Sea, rice with peanuts and salad, a very delicious meal! The other renters/housemates are Vedat from Turkey, Phillipe from Germany and Sebastian from Poland. The dinner ‘thing’ takes place almost every night which is very enjoyable and usually if one prepares something in the kitchen, asks the others if they want, whether it is coffee, tea, breakfast, launch or dinner. Thus, individualization is not the case here! We all do cleaning, cooking or helping in cooking and everything works out pretty well.
This expands of course to my research subject, how can one distinguish a Greek from a Turkish identity, especially after living in Turkish ground since….forever? And what are the reasons that make the Greeks of Istanbul to want to be differentiated from Turks but also from the Greeks of Greece? That is something I have to figure out…
What I find amusing are the conceptions that Turkish people have about Greeks. Like Kanber, who was teasing me last night: “And how should I know that you are a student, as you say, and not a spy for the Greek government? What are you doing here? It is suspicious!” We had a great laugh!